Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Number 7: Salted butter caramel ice cream

Ladies and gentlemen, this is the reason why I bought an ice cream machine. The one time I've had dessert at Hot Chocolate in Wicker Park, Roomie and I ordered the Chocolate #1, a warm Colombian chocolate ganache and muscavado sugar meringue tart stuffed with chocolate soufflé, served with salted caramel ice cream and housemade pretzels.

It. Was. Amazing. To say the least. Completely worth the long train ride and $11.

So since then, I've wanted to try salted caramel ice cream (and the chocolate souffle tart) but the closest recipe I've found online is David Lebovitz (of the Perfect Scoop) and his Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream recipe.

Making caramel was a bit scary at first (pure sugar? almost burnt? hell to clean) but it was all right (Jerry helped again). It took a while at first to make this because I couldn't find the mixer for my ice cream maker, so Jerry and Vincent made a makeshift one - it didn't really work.

It sort of worked, and then didn't. But good thinking, Harvey Mudd kid. Eventually we found the paddle but it was too late, so I saved it for the next day and churned it then.

The problem is that the sugar content is so high in this recipe, it doesn't freeze easily. Even after you churn it, it's still a bit liquidy and you have to freeze it for a couple hours before it gets to the right consistency.

The ice cream definitely didn't turn out as good as the one from Hot Chocolate - it's too sweet, a little burnt (that's my bad). It was definitely worthwhile, but I didn't want to mess with the recipe because ice cream is like chemistry - super cool but a little foreign to me.

Salted butter caramel ice cream
with caramel pralines

For the caramel praline (mix-in)
½ cup (100 gr) sugar

¾ teaspoon sea salt, such as fleur de sel

For the ice cream custard
2 cups (500 ml) whole milk, divided
1½ cups (300 gr) sugar
4 tablespoons (60 gr) salted butter
scant ½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cups (250 ml) heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

To make the caramel praline
1. Spread the ½ cup (100 gr) of sugar in an even layer in a medium-sized, unlined heavy duty saucepan
2. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or brush it sparingly with unflavored oil.
3. Heat the sugar over moderate heat until the edges begin to melt.
4. Use a heatproof utensil to gently stir the liquefied sugar from the bottom and edges towards the center, stirring, until all the sugar is dissolved.
5. Continue to cook stirring infrequently until the caramel starts smoking and begins to smell like it's just about to burn. It won't take long.

6. Without hesitation, sprinkle in the ¾ teaspoon salt without stirring (don't even pause to scratch your nose), then pour the caramel onto the prepared baking sheet and lift up the baking sheet immediately, tilting and swirling it almost vertically to encourage the caramel to form as thin a layer as possible. Set aside to harden and cool.

To make the ice cream
1. Make an ice bath by filling a large bowl about a third full with ice cubes and adding a cup or so of water so they're floating. Nest a smaller metal bowl (at least 2 quarts/liters) over the ice, pour 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk into the inner bowl, and rest a mesh strainer on top of it.
2. Spread 1½ cups (300 gr) sugar in the saucepan in an even layer. Cook over moderate heat, until caramelized, using the same method described above.
3. Once caramelized, remove from heat and stir in the butter and salt, until butter is melted, then gradually whisk in the cream, stirring as you go. The caramel may harden and seize.
4. Return it to the heat and continue to stir over low heat until any hard caramel is melted.
5. Stir in 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk
6. Whisk the yolks in a small bowl and gradually pour some of the warm caramel mixture over the yolks, stirring constantly.
7. Scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and cook the custard using a heatproof utensil, stirring constantly (scraping the bottom as you stir) until the mixture thickens. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read 160-170 F (71-77 C).
8. Pour the custard through the strainer into the milk set over the ice bath, add the vanilla, then stir frequently until the mixture is cooled down. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or until thoroughly chilled.
9. Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.
10. While the ice cream is churning, crumble the hardened caramel praline into very little bits, about the size of very large confetti (about ½-inch, or 1 cm).
11. Once your caramel ice cream is churned, quickly stir in the crushed caramel, then chill in the freezer until firm.

Note: As the ice cream sits, the little bits of caramel may liquefy and get runny and gooey, which is what they're intended to do.

1 comment:

herryjuynh said...